Dior hosted a landmark runway show in
Mumbai on Thursday, a move nodding both to India's long-standing role in
manufacturing European high fashion and the growing power of its luxury
consumers.
With the historic Gateway of India
monument acting as a backdrop, the French label presented its Pre-Fall 2023
collection to a star-studded crowd including Bollywood icons Rekha, Sonam
Kapoor and Anushka Sharma, as well as model Cara Delevingne and actor Maisie
Williams.
The location was a clear inspiration:
The runway itself was adorned with marigold and diya lamps, and the clothes
featured Madras check and Benarasi brocade fabrics, mirror work, tie dye
detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring.
On Wednesday, the atelier held a retrospective in Mumbai featuring 50
hand-embroidered pieces it has produced for the label since Chiuri took the
helm in 2016.
Dior has also turned to Chanakaya School of Craft, a non-profit
institute run by Chankaya International and staffed by communities of female
textile workers, for various runway backdrops. Among them were a collection of
22 mammoth tapestries, created in collaboration with Indian artists Madhvi and
Manu Parekh, that Dior commissioned for its Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022
show.
Indian artisans' links to French high fashion date back to the 17th
century, when tailors from Europe's royal courts would source textiles from the
subcontinent. Today, a significant portion of the luxury industry's supply
chain has been outsourced to India, said Rahul Mishra, who in 2020 became
the first Indian designer to be invited to show a runway collection
during Haute Couture season in Paris.
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